Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade

Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade is a living memorial to the struggles and triumphs of enslaved Africans and their descendants who helped build the Brazilian nation. Feasts, such as those celebrating Divino Espirito Santo, Sao Benedito, and Tres Pessoas da Santissima Trindade celebrate their African roots and demonstrate the religious syncretism which resulted from centuries of interaction with Europeans and Catholic Church.

The city's origins begin with Spanish and Portuguese adventurers combing the region beginning in the 16th century. In 1731, the brothers Arthur and Fernando Paes de Barros, explored along the Guapore River for gold and slaves. The region's dense vegetation earned it the name Mato Grosso - a name which would later be used for the future state. A permanent settlement, little more than a large mining camp site, was established at Pouso Alegre. Consolidating its holdings in the west and establishing its border with Bolivia, the government of Portuguese Brazil established the State of Mato Grosso and named Antonio Rolim de Moura its first governor. On March 19, 1752 he founded the city of Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade, on the site of Pouso Alegre, to serve as the capital.

Between 1825 and 1835, the state government moved to Cuiaba, a more accessible city. Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade lost its political importance, as well as its name, which became Mato Grosso. A sizable portion of its population was lost as most moved with the government to Cuiaba. Those remaining in the former capital were primarily of African descent, who were able to preserve many of their traditional ways. (The city regained its name of Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade in 1978).

The city remained isolated until 1906, when Field Marshall Candido Manano da Silva Rondon installed a telegraph station eighty kilometres away in Vila dos Pretos (now Lacarda e Pontes). A state highway (MT 246) completed in 1962 provided a year-round connection to Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade from the city of Caceres. (Prior to this highway connection, roads were impassable during the rainy season). In 1983, under President Joao Figueiredo, BR 174 was installed, running from Porto Velho in the state of Rondonia to Cuiaba and into Bolivia. Running along the Guapore River, it provided a major connection to cities and settlements along its length.

How To Get There

From Cuiaba it's exactly 521km from which 215 are through the BR070, to Caceres. From Caceres, ride 230km more on BR 174 to Pontes e Lacerda, both roads are in very good condition and totally paved. Then, take the old MT-246 (nowadays just part of the BR 174, a federal highway). Between Pontes e Lacerda and Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade you will ride 76km. On this road, 22km are already paved and the rest is under construction. The paving work is expected to be concluded between August and October 2001. There are no regular air connections.

Attractions

The Guapore River is a tributary of the Amazon and crosses through lush vegetation. The occupation and establishment of Brazil's western border is directly related to the settlement of the Guapore River valley, which linked the region northwards through Porto Velho. Three different species of botos or river dolphins inhabit the river, delighting visitors with their calculated strikes in the water. In September, tracajas, a species of turtle hatch along the riverbanks and rush towards the river by the thousands. The area is also home to the Cigana, a bird that has changed little from its prehistoric ancestors.

Nature always surprises visitors with the unexpected. The buritzal (palm) forests of the park are home to araras vermelhas. As they fly across the sky in search of food, their bright plumage and loud cries provide a spectacular sight. Also in the forests are ararinhas, or parakeets.

A visit to the Namorados Falls is an unforgettable experience. Namorados Falls drops 70 metres into a clear lake, from which a tiny stream winds through the forest. Visitors follow a tortuous trail along this stream before experiencing the beauty and majesty of the falling waters. Behind the water curtain is a large room, excavated in the rock, which provides a view of the Falls from a different angle.

The impressive ruins of this Main church of Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade date back to the 18th century. Built primarily with slave labour, this historic landmark represents colonial expansion while also being a symbol of Brazil's multi-ethnic identity. The side altar is decorated with images of saints and oratories. While Catholicism has been the dominant religion those of African descent continue to practice many of their own rituals.

The Church Square is located in the centre of town, the Church Square is covered with numerous shade trees. In the square is one of three cannons used against invading Spanish Troops in 1763. War between Spain and Portugal had led to conflict along the Guapore, with Portuguese troops under Rolim de Moura fighting Spanish troops from Santa Cruz de La Sierra (Bolivia). The beautiful fort Principe da Beira was built as a results of this conflict.

The People

Economic hardships which began in the 19th century continue today. Many people earn their living through agriculture. However, farming is difficult as the land is subject to periodic flooding from the Guapore River.

The raising of cattle is the predominant activity in the area. It is common to meet groups of cowboys herding their cattle. The fertile lands of the Guapore River valley are ideal for raising cattle. Colorado grass, brought from Africa and used as bedding by slaves aboard ships, grows rapidly during long winters.

Feasts & Rituals

Saint Benedict is the patron saint of Vila Bela da Santissima Trindade, and is considered by the locals to be the most powerful of saints. The Festa do Congo in July is held in his honor.

The Congo Dance is a marvelous ritual, led by those chosen to play king, prince, minister, soldier, and ambassador. Being selected to play these major roles is an important honor. During rehearsals, which begin a month before the feast, youngsters also take part, learning the secrets of the rituals.

The Festa do Congo lasts eight days and consists of the Festa do Divino and St Benedicts Feast, with its colourful Congo dance of participants dressed as kings, princes, judges, and warriors. They re-enact historical scenes form the wars between the kingdoms of Congo and Bamba.

This women's only dance is also a part of the Feast of St Benedict. There is a standard choreography accompanied by a song. One group maintains a constant rhythm by hitting benches, tables and chairs with their palms, while another group dances and sings, making gestures and shaking their hips.

Women dress for St. Benedict's Feast with traditional bead necklaces and other ornaments, styles that have remained unchanged for three hundred years.

Kangingin is a popular drink at feasts, made from aromatic and medicinal herbs, honey and cachaca (the local sugar cane liquor). It is also considered an aphrodisiac, and exact formulations are well-kept secrets.